How To Build A Beginner’s Maple Syrup Evaporator

Alan Garbers shares how he built an inexpensive but highly productive maple syrup evaporator

As demand grows the small producer may tap more and more trees to fill the need.  It isn’t surprising that many backyard syrup producers quickly outgrow their boiling apparatus and turn to the commercial maple equipment catalogs.

Several years ago I had reached this same predicament and was dreaming of purchasing a real maple syrup evaporator.  The evaporator I was looking at was a small back yard model that could handle 20 to 150 taps.  Two things stopped me from spending the money.  The first problem was the fact that a commercially made maple syrup evaporator cost a cool grand.  The second problem was that on slow days the sap from the two dozen trees I tap would just barely cover the bottom of the large pan.  That in turn would risk running the evap dry, scorching the pan, or worse, warping the metal and destroying it.

I dreamed of an evap that was low cost and could have variable capacity to match the varying sap flow.  I wanted the pan to be of stainless steel so it would be easy to clean and wouldn’t rust in the off season.  I wanted a firebox that I could build on-site with readily available materials.

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The design I came up with is the sum of these desires.  For the firebox and pan support I chose the inexpensive cement block.  I had quite a few stacked around our place that were leftovers from other projects.  Irregular or slightly damaged blocks can also be had at many block companies for a fraction of the cost of new ones.

By using separate pans the capacity can vary by using water in some pans while sugar water is boiled down in others. The closer the pan is to the flue, the faster it boils. The closer the pan is to the door or inlet, the slower it boils.


For the boiling pans I wanted something that was cheap, would hold up well over the years, and be easy to replace if damaged.  I found used steam table pans to be just the ticket.  Steam table pans can be found at any used restaurant equipment dealer and at  many scrap metal dealers.  I was able to get my pans for $3.00 to $5.00 each.

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Before I started work building my evap I made a mock up with the blocks and fire brick to figure out my dimensions.  A mock up is made by placing the blocks and brick as they would be on the completed walls.  Keep in mind dimensions will be greater once a half inch of mortar is added between the blocks.  Drawing it out on paper can also help figure the dimensions.  In my design I wanted the steam table pans to set down into the block walls, with the pan lips being supported by the fire brick liner.  This meant the interior width had to be 20 inches.

To lay the foundation for the evap a solid concrete slab is desired.  As my old shed has a dirt floor, I knocked together some 2” by 4” lumber into forms for the shape and dimensions I wanted for my finished evap. If you’re not familiar with masonry work you might want to enlist the aid of an experienced friend to help you.  The promise of pure, homemade maple syrup can help the recruitment.

Since the foundation is going to be supporting a tremendous amount of weight I scraped away all of the loose fill and debris so that nothing would settle later on.  As wet concrete is heavy and has a tendency to bulge or move forms, stakes were driven a intervals and nailed to the forms.  To add even more strength, place reinforcement mesh, used in driveways, inside the proposed foundation.

When the form is ready, pick a warm day to pour the cement.  In many areas tool rental companies provide premixed concrete ready to pour in special one square yard trailers.  In most cases it is best to call ahead to make sure the mixer is working and trailers are still available.  Trowels, floats and other concrete working tools can rented at the same time.  Since your evap foundation probably won’t take anywhere near a full yard of concrete it might also be wise to have other small concrete jobs lined up to use the remainder.  In example: my slab was 40” wide by 87” long by 4”deep.  That figures out to be 13,920 cubic inches of concrete.  One cubic foot of concrete is 1,728 cubic inches.  13,920 divided by 1,728 equals a little more than eight cubic feet.  A cubic yard has 27 cubic feet so you can see how much extra can be available to do things like sidewalks, garage aprons, and basketball courts.

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If the evaporator site isn’t in a location that the concrete trailer can be pulled up to, wheel barrows can be used to transport the concrete but speed is of the essence for the concrete sets up within a couple of hours, in your forms…in the wheel barrow…and in the trailer.

The forms can be removed a day later but the concrete should be fully cured before placing any weight on it.  In cold weather this make take up to a week.

The foundation is done.
The foundation is done.

The next step it to build the pan bearing walls of the firebox.  Using the concrete blocks, erect the U-shaped walls in another mock-up.  Remember to install a section of stove pipe in the end  for the flue.  Working out any last minute problems can save headaches later. Once the mock-up is satisfactory, remove the blocks, carefully stacking them in the reverse order that they went on.  By doing so, you will know exactly which block went where.

Using regular mortar, erect the walls as they were during the mock-up.  Keep the walls square and straight.  Failure to do so can cause problems later.

The walls start going up.
The walls start going up.

While the firebox could be used without firebrick, the concrete blocks would soon crack and break and all your hard work would eventually come crumbling down.  Fire bricks are special heat-resistant bricks that insulate the concrete and prevent flame impingement.  By using firebrick the firebox life can be extended indefinitely.  Like concrete blocks, regular mortar will not hold up to the heat and flames so special firebrick mortar or epoxy is used.  This special compound can be found at almost any brick supplier for $15 to $20 per can.  While this is a high price the firebrick mortar is spread thin and goes a long way.

Plan your firebrick courses out a head of time so that it comes flush with the top of the concrete blocks.  Prudent cutting with a brick chisel and careful planning of rows will make the job much easier.

Fire brick lines the inside walls to protect the concrete blocks. Creative layouts help assure that the tops of the firebrick and block line up.
Fire brick lines the inside walls to protect the concrete blocks. Creative layouts help assure that the tops of the firebrick and block line up.

The flue base needs to be strong enough to support whatever type of flue you chose.
The flue base needs to be strong enough to support whatever type of flue you chose.

I added an angle iron frame to hold the pans. This allowed me to grab the pan flanges easier and kept the pan s from abrading the fire brick as I worked with them.
I added an angle iron frame to hold the pans. This allowed me to grab the pan flanges easier and kept the pans from abrading the fire brick as I worked with them.

Once the fire box is complete a door can be made.  While a door isn’t necessary it does help control the fire and boiling process.  Whether leaning against the opening, or having it hinged and anchored to the concrete blocks, a piece of ¼” plate steel makes a good door.  Old doors of wood fired boilers can also be used.

An additional step that can extend the life of the fire box is to add angle iron pan holders.  Using a pan rack, the pans never come in contact with the fire brick, which can loosen them.

Final Costs

Commercial hobby evaporator   50-150 tap capacity $995.00


Home built evaporator   Variable capacity                 $218.80

Slab concrete (cu. yard)       1/3 @ $65.00    $22.00

Concrete blocks                    40 @ $ 1.27     $50.80

Firebrick                              120 @ $ 0.80    $96.00

Mortar (50lb. Bag)                  1 @ $ 5.00      $  5.00

Firebrick mortar (can)             1 @ $15.00     $15.00

Pans                                     6 @ $ 5.00      $30.00

Total                                                                $218.80



When syrup season comes, place all of the pans in the racks and fill them with sap.  Resist the urge to build a fire before filling the pans.  It just takes a matter of seconds to warp or scorch a pan.

If  there isn’t enough sap to fill all of the pans, simply fill what pans you can with sap, and fill the remaining pans with water.  As the sap boils down transfer the sap from the low pan into the other sap pans to keep their level high.  As each sap pan is emptied fill it with water to keep it from burning.  When the final pan is low transfer the sap/syrup into a finishing pan and complete the boiling on a stove that can be easily controlled.  WARNING: DON’T DUMP WATER INTO THE FIRE TO PUT IT OUT!  Doing so will create clouds of billowing steam which WILL scorch and exposed skin, and might damage the firebrick walls

With proper care this inexpensive evaporator can last for generations and be the center piece of a memorable family tradition.  Sugaring can involve the whole family.  Tending the evap fire is a great way to relax and spend time with loved ones.  The billowing clouds rising off the boiling sap are mesmerizing and old-timers swear nothing cures colds better than sap steam!

If your needs grow, this evap can assist you in keeping your initial costs low until you are ready to make the transition to a 1000 to 2000 tap high-efficiency commercial evaporator.

Whichever path you choose I know you will enjoy “sugaring” and it will be a occupation that will bring sweet success for many generations.


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Alan Garbers
Alan James Garbers – Alan is passionate for the outdoors. He enjoys fishing, hunting, hiking, canoeing, photography, writing, woodworking, and more. He loves exploring the BWCAW in northern Minnesota, roaming the deserts of Arizona, or hiking the mountains of Colorado. He has lived in Minnesota, Hawaii, Mississippi, Florida, Colorado, Arizona, and Indiana. From hunting rattlesnakes to black bear and fishing for catfish to muskie, he loves it all. Since 1989 his writing credits have included Indiana Outdoor News, Indiana Game & Fish, Muzzle Blasts, Outdoor Guide Magazine, Fur-Fish-Game, Boundary Waters Journal, Boys’ Quest, Fun For Kidz, Mother Earth News, Cricket, Small Farm Today, American Careers, Arizona Hunter & Angler, Old West, and others. Fiction credits include StarTrek Strange New Worlds Anthologies IV, V, and 08. Alan recently complied an anthology of his popular column, Behind The Badge: True Stories of Indiana’s Conservation Officers. It is available in e-reader format and found at Amazon and other on-line book retailers. Alan is a member of AGLOW and HOW.


  1. Hello,

    This is exactly what I have been looking for.

    Can you email me the dimensions and design for the iron frame please.

    I would really appreciate it.


  2. This is great. I’ve been searching for a while and I love the design.

    If you have more precise plans I would really appreciate it:
    – Dimensions if possible
    – Iron Frame (as above)
    – Flume attachment and cost?
    – The back of the evaporator seams to have a rise (1st drawn picture), how long and high.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated

    Have a a great week,


  3. Eric and Chelsea,
    I’m glad you enjoyed the article. Unfortunately, I no longer live at the location where I built the evaporator. But, the pans I used were roughly 21″ long and 12″ wide. I recommend procuring your pans first, then build your evaporator to match the pans. The block used to make the outside walls were common 8″ wide and 16″ long blocks, most of which were 8″ tall. Fire brick can vary in size, and you may even find fireboard that can be cut to size. The flue was just 8″ single wall woodstove flue pipe. I gave the back of the evaporator a 4″ rise, because I thought it would help the heated gases to rise and flow towards the flue, but I think it would work also being the same height all the way.
    The frames were made from scrap 2″ angle iron and some flat iron that I welded together.
    The lower frame was large enough to hold two trays and the upper frame held three. The goal was to make the trays easy to remove but close enough to minimize smoke and flames from leaking out between the pans.
    I highly recommend gathering all your materials first, then do a mock-up, realizing that mortar joints take up about a 1/2″ each. The firebrick mortar is more like a glue and makes thinner joints. Take measurements of the mock-up and build it for real. You can modify your evaporator as you find out what you do and don’t like about it.
    Good luck!

    • Try shopping at local brick producers. You can also watch on Craigslist or Letgo. Unfortunately, the company that I bought my brick at has closed for good.

    • Yes, there are no 80 cent firebricks in our area either. Menards was the cheapest at about $2.25 but Lowes and Home Depot were over $5 EACH. Better to use a regular clay brick (not concrete). You can find clay bricks at brick yards. I paid 70 cents each. Maybe that’s what Garbers was meaning??

  4. Dear Alan,

    Thank you for this great article. I wonder though about the transfert from pan to pan. Are you lifting the pans off by hand to transfert from back to front? I’d be glad of trying this design of your but I need to know the operation need. I am not familiar with the meaning of capacity in “taps”. Could you tell me how many liters are you able to process per hour or in a day so I can translate that for my needs? Thank you

  5. Yes, I used welding gloves to lift the hot pans out. The capacity in taps is referring to the amount of sugar water an average tap puts out. For me, one tap was about one gallon. Some trees did better, some worse. One a good day, with the right wood to burn, the evaporator was able to boil off 5-10 gallons an hour. I spent many a long night boiling when the sap was running good.

  6. Thanks for the detailed article. 1 quick question about this – We’re going to mimic this design but was concerned with the cement floor – did the fire cause spalling of the concrete? Did you end up adding a layer of fire brick to the floor as well? Thanks again!!
    John Sheehan, Newark WI.

  7. I had no problem with spalling of the floor. Heat rises and in most cases a blanket of ash insulates it. But, if you want to add firebrick to the floor, it won’t hurt anything.

  8. Thank you so much for the detailed article, I’m thinking of doing something like this for my ~50 tap setup. One question I had was in the design you have the flue extending backwards, but it looks like what you ended up setting up was a kind of back notch that the flue extended vertically from. Am I seeing this right? Thank you for your help, this is the first kind of masonry project I have thought about doing.

    • David, the original steel flue I installed failed so I went with a different arraignment. The new flue was straight up out of the notch area which allowed the bricks to support the clay tile flue I used. That also failed after a few seasons because the clay tile flue was meant to be encased in a special concrete block that in my haste to get boiling, I didn’t use. You will find anything you make will be evolutionary in nature and you will always be tweaking it to make improvements as your experience grows. The key to rapid boiling is flame tip impingement on the bottom of the pans. The flue gases are going to want to rise naturally so anything you can do to improve the natural draft will help you. Moving the flue to the top from the side seemed to help.

  9. Where on earth are you finding fire brick for 80 cents each?? Lowes, Home Depot is like $5 EACH. Menards was the best at about $2 each. I see you wrote this in 2016 but still….

  10. Hello Alan
    I would like to expand my capacity a bit and your plan looks interesting. The one question I have is given the steam pans sit down in the firebox do you have scorching issues in the area below the top of the pan and the level at which you are maintaining sap? It seems there would be nothing protecting the pans in this area.

  11. Glyn, I bought my fire bricks directly from a brick manufacturer. Unfortunately, they have gone out of business.

    Bob, while the pans get some residue on the sides they usually came off the next time I filled the pan.

  12. If you have very, very good ventilation in your sugar shack this won’t be a problem, but condensation on the underside of your roof will drip back into the pans, seriously contaminating the syrup. Most producers have a stainless steel hood over top of the evaporator pan, shaped like a roof, and the condensate drips down OUTSIDE of the pans.
    Another source of contamination is smoke getting past the pans (a really strong draft in the chimney reduces this). Use high-temperature rope gasket to seal that area (but then you can’t lift and replace the pans as easily). Smoke and particulates from the combustion will seriously spoil your syrup.
    Lastly, 1.25″ thick firebrick allows the temperature to rise much more quickly inside the stove, and putting high-temperature “wool” insulation between the concrete blocks and the firebrick would save you a lot of firewood.


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